To paddle a SUP straight, keep the paddle shaft as close to vertical as you can, put the blade in near the rail, and take it out at your feet rather than behind you. Then correct the drift either by switching sides every few strokes or, once you’re more practiced, with a small J-stroke at the end of each stroke.
Every board turns away from the side you paddle on. The aim isn’t to stop that completely, just to keep it small enough that you can correct it without losing speed.
Quick answer
- Vertical shaft: stack your top hand over your bottom hand at the catch.
- Close to the rail: the blade should brush past the edge of the board, not sweep out wide.
- Short stroke: pull from just in front of your toes back to your feet, then lift the blade out.
- Switch sides every 3–5 strokes as a beginner.
- Then learn the J-stroke (or a nose draw) so you can stay on one side longer.
- Use a bigger fin and check your board, because some boards just track better.
Why your board turns
Your paddle is pushing on one side of the board, so the nose swings away from that side. Three habits make it much worse:
- A wide stroke. If the blade travels in an arc away from the rail, it acts like a sweep turn.
- A slanted shaft. If the top hand is inboard of the bottom hand, the stroke pushes the board sideways. Glide’s stroke guide points to this as a common cause of zig-zagging.
- Pulling past your feet. Once the blade is behind you it mostly lifts water and swings the tail. Glide recommends finishing around your feet.
Fix those three and most of the drift goes away.
Step 1: Get the forward stroke right
- Grip: one hand on the T-grip, the other on the shaft, roughly shoulder-width or a bit more apart.
- Reach: rotate your shoulders and hips, not just your arms, and put the blade in a comfortable distance ahead of your toes.
- Catch: bury the whole blade before you pull. Glide’s phrase is plant, then pull.
- Pull: keep the shaft vertical (top hand stacked over the bottom one) and pull the board past the paddle, close to the rail.
- Exit: at your feet, slice the blade out sideways and swing it forward for the next stroke.
If the blade face is the wrong way round, the stroke fights you. The blade should angle forward, toward the nose. See how to hold a paddle board paddle.
Step 2: Switch sides
The simplest fix: take a few strokes on one side, then swap hands and take a few on the other. As NRS notes, it works, though every switch costs a little momentum.
- Swap before the board has turned much. Every 3–5 strokes is typical for beginners.
- When you switch, swap hands too: the hand on the T-grip should be the one on the opposite side to the blade.
Step 3: Learn a correction stroke
Once your stroke is tidy, you can stay on one side longer by adding a small correction to each stroke.
The J-stroke. At the end of the stroke, as the blade passes your feet, turn your top thumb forward so the blade’s power face turns outward, and push it slightly away from the board. The blade traces a small “J” and nudges the tail back on line.
The nose draw. NRS describes a “closed-face nose draw”: at the start of the stroke, angle the blade’s leading edge slightly toward the board and draw the nose toward the paddle, then carry on with a normal stroke. It costs less speed than switching sides.
The cross-forward stroke. For a quick correction without changing hands, NRS suggests reaching across the nose and taking a forward stroke on the other side. It’s less powerful, so use it sparingly.
Practice these on flat water. They feel awkward for a few sessions, then become automatic.
Step 4: Check your fin and board
Equipment makes a real difference. NRS points out that board and fin combinations have a big effect on tracking.
- Fin size: a longer center fin with a wider base tracks straighter than a small surf fin. Many inflatables ship with a short fin; a 9–10 inch touring fin is a cheap upgrade if your fin box takes it.
- Fin position: in a sliding fin box, moving the fin toward the tail helps tracking; moving it forward makes the board turn more easily.
- Board shape: long, narrow boards with a pointed (displacement) nose track much better than short, wide, round-nosed boards. A 12’6” touring board barely needs correcting; a 10’ all-around board needs more. If straight-line paddling matters to you, our Board Fitter can suggest a longer touring size for your weight.
Step 5: Account for wind and current
Wind pushes the nose (and you) sideways, especially on an inflatable with a lot of board above the water.
- In a crosswind, expect to take more strokes on one side than the other. Paddle on whichever side holds your line.
- Kneel in strong wind. You catch less of it.
- Plan your route so you head back with the wind behind you. More in what are the best conditions for paddle boarding.
FAQ
Why does my paddle board keep turning in circles?
Usually it’s a wide stroke that arcs away from the board, or pulling the blade back past your feet. Keep the stroke short, close to the rail and with a vertical shaft, and switch sides more often.
How many strokes should I take on each side?
Beginners usually manage 3–5 strokes before the board drifts too far. With good technique and a correction stroke, experienced paddlers can stay on one side for 10 or more.
Do inflatable paddle boards track worse than hard boards?
Shape and fin matter more than construction. But many budget inflatables are short and wide with a small fin, so they do tend to wander more. A bigger fin helps.
Does a longer paddle board go straighter?
Yes, generally. Longer boards track better and glide further each stroke, which is why touring and race boards are 12’6” or longer. They’re also harder to turn.
